I briefly described the ‘basic’ terms used but as usual I like to elaborate!
I’ve had a think and I can’t recall any others that I was taught or use so I’m pretty sure these are just the regular ones but you can add to your dogs training, such as finding keys. I’ve been trying to get Ellie to get my keys if I drop them by saying “Keys!” but so far no luck – I’m sure we will get there eventually haha I have faith. Although my parents think she is confusing “Cheese” with “Keys”. Ellie likes cheese, we have to give it to her when it’s worm tablet time.
The main thing I keep stating is that do not confuse two commands by saying sit down and lie down. It’s “Sit” or “Lie Down” two commands that sound similar are very confusing to the dog, so try to avoid it.
Left and Right are pretty easy to remember but don’t forget the foot positions, this will help your guide dog with turning smoothly and go with it, if you don’t do the foot positions the dog tends to question your decision, or at least Ellie does when I forget.
Every person I talk to has slightly different variations on the ‘Busy’ command for your dog toilet needs. I was taught to use ‘Be Busy’ and some other people have been told ‘Get Busy’ I don’t really think it matters which emphasis you use get or be, but as long as “Busy!” is directed to your guide dog I’m sure they will understand. I don’t really need to say it but I do. Ellie just knows through routine that I will ask to if she needs to go before and after we go out, first thing in the morning and last thing at night so she just expects it and waits for those times. You are taught to give them the opportunity to go every 3 hours but Ellie rarely needs to do this.
I occasionally forget and say “Stop” but what I really mean is “Stand”. Ellie ignores me if I stay stop because she knows stand. If I want her to stop completely or while I’m trying to put her harness on that’s when I say “Stand!”. Also, it’s obviously not necessary, but I find through trial and error that if I say Ellie before I say the command I have her full attention, it can be hit and miss if I don’t say her name first, I just got in the habit and it seems to work for us.
The foot positions really help and I sometimes forget with other things on my mind but it’s something to really get used to doing. So that it becomes second nature and you don’t have to focus on it. Which I know is really, really hard in the beginning almost to the point of overwhelming if you get hooked onto things like I do, good old OCD.
Remember! to always bring yourself up to the dogs front when you are standing at a roadside or have just stopped. They don’t like being left on their own and it will also reinstate the trust when testing far traffic. Make sure both of your feet at are in line with your dogs front feet. The move your right foot back one step before asking if it’s safe to cross. For turning right, turn your right foot in towards your dog and turn your body to face your dog then say “Right!”. Do the opposite for left, but if you dog, like mine, prefers to go left and turn you around, so that you are now facing the direction (right) you wanted to go, that’s okay, just go with which ever is easier. It isn’t as disorientating as it sounds.
“Find the curb/step”, really only works if you actually have a curb. It doesn’t work for me with the ‘shared crossings’ we have here locally with tactile pavement that has been sloped to accommodate buggies and scooters. Instead you can go a little past the designated crossing point, which is what I do, to reinstate the “Find the curb/step” command. Your dog must stop and announce that you are at the road side, and wait for your forward command before moving, this is something you will probably need to keep going over, despite the fact, fresh out of their training they will be on the ball, it might decline in the months after qualification. Mine did and I just have to keep going over it. Wait till you are in the middle of the road before asking your guide dog to “Find the curb/step” on the other side, stagger commands, they need time to think and react, just like us. This has only been tricky for us because of the tactile pavement and flat curb around here, they are no real curbs so that’s probably why this is hard work for us.
When they find the curb or step for you, this is the same for steps/staircases, put your right foot up on it and then praise your dog for finding it for you, a pat on the head is usually enough for them. Praise, Praise, Praise and talk to your dog as much as you can while you are out and about, keep them focused and interested. Silence will kill the work. I was so self conscious of talking to my dog when I first qualified, now I talk non stop and I forget people can hear and see me. What you can do is put earphones in one ear, so it looks like you are just miming to your favourite tunes, but leave one earphone out so you can actually check for traffic!
Tips while free running your guide dog.
!. Drive to a park out of town, don’t use the park you regularly walk your dog in, or they will think every time they go there they can go off the lead.
3. Take someone with you, someone who drives or a friend, who is sighted. Use them to guide you, or use your long cane, using the cane while free running your dog is a good idea, because as you are going along, try to keep moving in the opposite direction to where you dog is going so that they have to keep looking up and finding you, you will generally find they don’t go too far away from you unless something smells really good.
4. If you are standing still talking to your friend and your dog meets another dog and they start playing chase, they may bump into you, Ellie does with me all the time, keep your legs relaxed but bent. Not straight rods, if they bump into you, your body should just sway but if you are straight legged the force could break your leg(s), meaning you can’t work your guide dog for several weeks, they will be boarded with other people because you can’t look after them and it’s a really lonely avoidable experience.
5. Bring treats, dog bags, a whistle and maybe a ball.
6. When you arrive at the park, before you take your guide dog of the harness and lead. Get them to sit, then lie down, then walk around them in a circle several times, change the amount of times and direction every week so they don’t get used to it or memorize how many times you go around, then get them to sit up again and take them of the lead. Say “Go Free” and they can run free to smell smells. Remember that 3 whistles = treat/food (that will be covered in your training) so when you want to call your dog back, I recommend calling them back about 3 times during a free run if you go out for an hour or so, and give them a treat every time they come back when asked, but obviously NO treat if they come back if you haven’t whistled. You can pick up free treats from your vets special ones against obesity, nothing worse than a overweight dog!
I think I’ve covered everything, if you have any questions, queries or you are a guide dog owner and you want/think I should add something else, please comment or email!
